The HIVE Tour episode 2 (Greece-N.Macedonia-Serbia)

It's such a lovely morning when I pack my bags, load them on my bike before I hit the road in order to cross the border to North Macedonia for the first time ever. Weird as it sounds despite my 13 years old motorcycle travelling career abroad I've never done so since my point of entry to the rest of Europe was always Italy. Yep, by ferry, my bike can't swim yet.

My hosts give me the warmest goodbye possible, welcoming me for coffee next time I'm around regardless if I intent to book their place ore not. Sweet as it gets, we say goodbye and I head East to Evzoni not following Google's recommendations but through the mountains as this route is super scenic.

Here I am at a short stop a few km before the border enjoying the birds singing:

I know you'd like to listen to them too so check out the video I'll embed later.

I run low on fuel and due to the lower fuel prices in N. Macedonia there are no gas stations near the border on the Greek side but I know I have more than enough to make it, especially after the last successful tuning I've done to my bike thanks to my mechanic (the adjusting screw of the front cylinder is still stuck but we managed to work it around).

I give my papers to the beautiful police lady on the Greek side of the border and she hands them back to me with an as beautiful smile after a brief look so I continue a few meters ahead to give them to the N. Macedonian authorities. It's a HUGE guy behind the counter but with as huge sense of humour and kindness. We started the talk in English but as soon as he realises I'm Greek (no surprise right?) he speaks to me in fluent Hellenic all the way. After checking all my papers he goes (still in my language): "You still have long hair?" I say "Yes, I can take off my helmet if you want". And then he replies: "No, it's OK Jimi Hendrix, you can go. Slow and take care!". The Jimi Hendrix thing totally cracked me up. I've been called Bob Marley riding the same motorcycle in Morocco (you can check that trip here) so now I have doubled my flattering comments from custom employees while travelling 🙂

I stop at the first gas station at the border and as I try to see how their thing works I guy comes immediately to serve me. He's also super kind and I am more than happy to fill my tank and cross the country for the first time. According to my fuel gauge I should be in the middle of my second (and last) reserve of fuel but my estimations were less pessimistic. The fuel pump's volume reading agrees with me so it's confirmed that over the last years for some reason I get earlier low fuel warnings from my bike. I don't care that much cause it's not a big difference. Besides, better pessimistic readings than optimistic right? Or maybe my bike wants to take more care of me after all these extended travelling. Thank you dear.

The first km on the N. Macedonian toll road are a blast. This comment coming from someone like me who hates toll roads has more weight. Very low traffic, great scenery as at this time the forests are super green and tarmac is good. At one of the tolls I make a short stop officially to check my luggage but unofficially to adore bits of Spring.

So, here I am on the A1 close to Vinicani:

Beauties of Spring at their peak:

Things get less enjoyable later as we are forced to deviate due to road works. A long deviation till I can get back on my route and now the toll road is bump me enough to convince me whether these works are needed or not. Some bumps are so tough that I have to reposition my camera despite that I have tightened it as humanely possible. On top of that, the weather is not as nice anymore but nothing to complain about (yet...).

I reach the North end of this small country so now it's time for the Serbian passport control. Though it's no passport for me, I travel with just my National ID thanks to bilateral agreements. You'll be surprised to see a list of countries I can visit without a passport and I've done most of them. But this can trigger funny incidents at the borders like the one while entering Montenegro:

Montenegro guy:"What is this?"

Me:"A National ID"

MG:"And when does this expire?"

Me:"It doesn't expire"

MG:"So you're going to stay young like this forever?"

I bet you laugh at this as much as I did back in the day. (If you're curious about that one click here)

Serbian border is easy like the previous one so...Serbia, here I come, also for my first time!

You see those clouds? Very innocent right? Well, after some km they became more of a thing to worry. At my fuel stop in Serbia, having already around 400km on my back weather is no fun anymore. It's windy and the wind chill is penetrating. Fortunately my rain gear cuts it all off including the drops of rain that started to fall, I pay the ultra tall pretty lady at the counter and hit the road.

The Northern I go the worse it gets but I am very close to exit the toll road and head West to Krusevac where my next AirBnb is. Well, there's a law called Myrphy's. Have you heard? So, the exit is closed due to road works and all vehicles are obliged to continue North. I said "how long can that be? No biggie for a couple of extra km". In fact this was beyond optimistic cause this deviation took me another 10 km North right in the heart of a thick black cloud that rained enough to shut the camera off as there was nothing worth recording anymore.

Speaking of recording, here you can watch the ride so far in 4K:

Miserable dark rainy weather and I drive the last tens of km left like a chicken. You don't want to ask for grip on such roads and you don't want to drop a fully loaded bike on wet. Fortunately I make it all the way without drama and the waterproofing I did to my luggage worked as I hoped. (I might dedicate a post about my luggage at some point if I find the time).

I am welcomed by the father of my AirBnb host who speaks a tiny fraction of English his son does and for some reason he speaks louder than a Motorhead gig. He's very fast and helpful and leads me to the spot at his carport that he has preserved for my bike. One more funny story starts up with my "no passport" situation so he calls his son to explain them the whole thing. Keep in mind that hosts in Serbia (as far as I understood) have to declare to the local police who they host, the point of entry of their host etc. Then they hand you a paper after declaration is complete. Never had that before...

I'm done, tired and hungry so please allow me to take care of myself now and see you on the next one!